The REO Cheesewagon brand is not new to me. I had dined at their food truck in the past. In fact, I would have sworn I reviewed it years ago, but when I double-checked my spreadsheet, I found no record of having written it up. So when I heard they had opened a brick-and-mortar location in downtown Maryville, I felt compelled to check it out and make things official. It’s always nice to see a food truck expand its operations as businesses like Good Golly Tamale and Alé Rae’s have done in the past.
I found the REO Cheesewagon Café on Broadway. There are parking areas on both sides of the building, but parking on the south side (which is closer to the café’s entrance) is prohibited. Make sure you park on the north side, closer to the heart of downtown.
I was flying solo for lunch on the day I visited, but I had it in mind to try more than one item, so I took into consideration both the lunch menu and the breakfast menu, the latter of which is served throughout their business day (7 a.m. to 2 p.m.).
The breakfast lineup features dishes like Second Breakfast (egg and cheese biscuits with a choice of meat) and the Avocado Toasty — sourdough or multigrain bread with avocado, egg and diced tomato. I got the Big Daddy ($10), a wrap stuffed with bacon, sausage, ham, egg, avocado, tomatoes and cheese.
By the way, the café also serves fresh, house-baked goods like sourdough bread and cinnamon rolls. Morning side items include muffins, coffee and tea.
Need a break? Play the USA TODAY Daily Crossword Puzzle.
I knew, of course, that I would also have to get one of their grilled-cheese sandwiches, the thing that REO Cheesewagon is best known for. Varieties available are the popular Blackberry Smoke — made with provolone, blackberry jam, jalapeńos and bacon — as well as the Cuban-inspired Ricky Ricardo. There’s also the Alabama Slammer (diced chicken breast, white barbecue sauce and more), the Nacho Mama and a pimento cheese.
I chose the long-windedly titled Reuben Don’t Take Your Love to Town ($10). Yes, it’s basically a classic Reuben, constructed with corned beef, provolone (instead of Swiss), Thousand Island dressing and sauerkraut on marbled rye bread.
Lunch fare includes three main dishes that can be prepared as either a salad or a wrap as well as a wider range of side items, such as mac and cheese, chips and pasta salad. I went with a cup of that day’s soup, chicken tortellini ($4). It was served with homemade focaccia bread.
I waited a reasonable amount of time for the customers ahead of me to receive their orders, and eventually, an employee delivered my soup and sandwiches to the table I had chosen in the dining room. I started by sampling the soup. There was an abundant amount of chicken breast meat and vegetables, all complemented by tortellini bites that expanded the overall experience. The focaccia was tasty, but the texture was a bit on the crumbly side.
Next, I took on the Big Daddy wrap, which really hit the spot. With its triple threat of breakfast meats, it’s very filling and satisfying, while the egg, avocado and cheese balance things out nicely. From a pure taste perspective, I wouldn’t have minded there being less sausage patty, the flavor of which I felt drowned out that of the bacon and ham. But it was still a good eat, and half that wrap was plenty for one sitting.
Before I left, I sampled some fresh, hot bites of the Reuben, which hit the mark as well. The composition of this sandwich was right on, with respectable amounts of corned beef and kraut layered with the cheese and dressing. I generally prefer Swiss on a Reuben, but the inclusion of provolone certainly did nothing to detract from my enjoyment.
REO Cheesewagon Café has been open only a couple of months, and their food truck is still rolling with the changes, primarily in the Blount County area. So if you happen to find yourself within striking distance of either venue, give it a try. In the meantime, I’m going to keep on lovin’ REO Cheesewagon.
REO Cheesewagon Cafe
Food: 4
Service: 4
Atmosphere: 3.75
Overall: 4
Address: 429 W. Broadway, Maryville
Phone: 865-233-0093
No alcohol service
Hours: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays
